Bathroom Pocket Door Design

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Nobody complains about having too much space in the master bedroom or bathroom. By installing a pocket door for bathroom privacy is a great way to gain precious space too.

Installation of new, easy gliding, silent bathroom pocket door hardware is fairly easy for the handy DIY homeowner, but an experienced handyman or door installer will craft excellent results while you go off and do what you're good at.

If you've never tackled a pocket door hardware refurbish project, you should know how involved the project is so you can decide if you have the time, tools, and skills needed to complete a reasonably professional looking job.

First, you need to remove the door stops - these are the strips of wood that help contain the door and help stop it from running off its rail. A utility knife is helpful for cutting the paint so pieces remove, are usable later on. Once all of the door stops and the molding are removed along the top of the old pocket door frame, you can tilt and lift the door out of its track.

Now you're ready to remove the flimsy worn old rail hardware and replace it with the new roller track hardware. Replacing the rail often requires opening up the wall space - that means carefully cutting out a section of drywall to get to the hardware inside the wall.

Once the old rail is removed, you can install the new rail. But this would be a good time to fix any alignment problems when the door was closed. Settling is a common cause of alignment door problems, and often times, the rail simply is higher on one end of its travel than the other. A simple piece of wood shim material is all that is needed to make the rail level again. Using your level, estimate how thick a shim you will need, and tack the shim in place. Then mount the rail with just a couple screws - recheck for level and finish setting all the screws when level.

Next, you just attach the new rollers to the door according to their instructions and hang the door on the rail - resting on the floor at this point. Use more shim material to space the bottom of the door about 1/4 inch off the floor. Tighten down the rollers to lock them in place and adjust the height of the rollers to eliminate any remaining gap along the jam where the door close against the stop.

Finally, replace the bits of trim, stops, and molding that you carefully removed in the beginning, and you're done! Oh, but then there's that big hole in the wall. Well that's not as bad as it looks either.

There should be plenty of room inside the pocket wall to use thin strips of wood (or unused shim) with short drywall screws to attach the strips to the inside of the drywall hole, forming a frame. Then the piece of drywall you cut out should fit nicely into the frame and use more short drywall screws to attach the cutout to the wood strips.

The resulting patch is strong. Putty over the seam and screw heads with compound and make flush using a putty knife.

When space is tight, one of the main solutions in the architectural industry is to maximize the remaining spaces. Thus, the creation of pocket doors.

Sliding pocket door or simply pocket door has been among the most favorite solutions during the Victorian Period. In the later periods, however, it was transformed and shelved among the most overlooked space-saving solutions for house plans. But in actuality, it saves a floor space amounting to an average of 10 square feet. Now, imagine how much space you could save by just hiding the doors!

Like most doors, sliding pocket doors could be custom-built. Nonetheless, they are normally sold as pre-assembled units or as individual kits. The pre-assembled unit may be composed of all or several of the main components such as hanger track, jamb and the cage.

Sliding doors solve problems too. These could be used in a tight location in the house where a swinging door is impossible and where an out-swinging or inverted door is an awkward solution.